Assembling your Routakit is fairly straight-forward. Keep in mind these instructions reflect the method that we find to be the easiest to follow, and is by no means the most efficient for everyone. You may find some parts easier to do another way, which is great! The machine depicted in these instruction is an earlier model, hardware and parts shown may vary to your kit, however the steps would remain the same.
Let’s get started with the gantry. Assembling the gantry is easy and it is comprised of three long 1500mm or 1550mm extrusions that need to be stacked on top of one another. Please follow the included paper instructions located in the gantry bag or click on the photo below.
The Base Frame
If your HD is is 1500x1500mm or larger you will need to assemble a base frame for it. Please follow the included paper instructions in the base frame bag or click on the photo below. Please keep in mind that the 20x40mm extrusions should be orientated tall wise. If you have the 2700mm version the 1550mm front and rear base extrusions will have a profile size of 40x40mm and not 20x40mm.
Y-Axis Extrusions (for 2500mm and 2700mm HDs only, skip if you have a smaller size)
Due to the length of your HD the y-axis needs to be reinforced with a dual extrusion setup for each side of the machine. Please follow the included paper instructions or click on the photo below.
The Ball Screw
The ball screw is composed of 4 parts; the screw with assembled housing (1), the top bearing and housing (2), the bottom bearing and housing (3), and the ball nut (4). The bearing housings come with their respective hardware for securing to the ball screw. Locate six (6) M5 screws in the packet labeled “Ball Screw”.
First slide the ball nut onto the ball screw housing and secure it in place with the six M5 screws.
Next install the top and bottom bearings. Secure the bottom bearing with the provided clamp. It can be difficult to put on so you will want some pliers or other tool to assist. Secure the top bearing with the provided nut, ensuring to loosen the set screw beforehand, and tighten the set screw when in position. Last, position the Spacer Plate on the face of the ball nut with the adhesive patch.
NOTE: Do not torque the top bearing nut to the point that the bearings have difficulty turning!
To assemble a wheel, place a bearing in one side of the wheel. Insert the wheel screw through the bearing. Thread a washer onto the screw and into the wheel. Thread the second bearing onto the screw and press into wheel. Thread the second washer onto the screw. The wheel is now ready to be installed on a plate!
NOTE: When installing wheels with eccentric nuts, take note of the nut’s orientation. One side of the nut has a round face. This round side should sink into the hole that the wheel is being installed in. For easier assembly, thread the nut onto the screw until hand-tight and the round part of the nut has sunk into the hole, then position the nut such that it “points” away from rails that the wheel will be engaging.
The Main Assembly consists of two plates, one with a rounded rectangular hole in it (plate A) and one with additional holes at the top and bottom (plate B), two steel rails, wheels, and the ball screw. We will be using hardware found in the “Wheel Kit”, “X-Axis” and “Ball Screw” packets.
Note: The X-Plates and Z-axis extrusions have been updated for your kit, while they may look different assembly is mostly the same with the exception of the inclusion of t-slot nuts for sliding the z-axis extrusions into place. Additional photos have been provided in the “Updated X-Plates” gallery below.
Begin by attaching wheels to the plates in the slots shown. Note, the plates shown for the wheel locations are already assembled, but it is much easier to install the wheels as the first step in assembly. Position the eccentric nuts to point downward (thick side up), since the rail will be above them. When installing the wheels be sure to put one washer between the bearings of the wheels and another washer between the bearing and plate.
Start the Main Assembly by threading the six (6) large screws through the holes in plate A (the one with the rectangular hole) as shown. Lay the plate on the table with the heads of the screws down, and thread the spacers back onto the screws. Lay plate B on top making sure the screws go through the same holes as Plate A. Next install the t-slot nuts, just a few turns will do. Carefully slide in the z-axis extrusions into the t-slot nuts and fasten down once all the way in.
Using the hardware from the Ball Screw packet, attach the ball screw to the main assembly.
The Y-Axis Assembly consists of an larger outer plate and a smaller inner plate. It will use hardware found in the “Wheel Kit” and “Y-Axis” packets.
First attach wheels to the plates as shown, aligning the eccentric nuts to “point” downward for ease of assembly. Remember that the resulting assemblies will be a mirror image of the other. Using the Y-Axis hardware, thread the screws through the plates and re-thread the spacers. Attach the inner plates now with a lock washer and nut on each screw.
We will now assemble the motor plates using the hardware from the “Motor Plates” packet.
Begin by attaching the bearing pulleys to each plate. Make sure to tighten the nuts on firmly because a loose pulley can lead to mechanical problems! The gear pulleys are to be attached to the motor shaft.
Using the hardware provided in the packet “X/Y Motors” attach the X/Y motors to the motor plates. The mounting holes on the Nema 24 motors are designed to be threaded and do not require a nut to secure it in place onto the motor plate. Please use the included tap kit to tap the holes on the motors before threading in the motor screws. If you opted for the Nema 34 motors they do not require tapping, simply slide in the screws and secure with a nut on the other side.
Now attach the angle brackets to the assembly with the screw heads on the inside (otherwise the screw and nut would interfere with the belt). Make sure to use the proper side of the bracket! Attach the motor plate to the bracket to complete assembly. Do this for the X-Axis and Y-Axis assemblies.
The base is comprised of two 2040 aluminum extrusions, 4 base plates, and the “Base” packet of hardware. (additional extrusions if your kit is one of the larger ones).
Insert the screws into the plates as shown, threading an extrusion nut onto the screws. Leave the extrusion nuts loose on the screws. Note that two of the four plates will be flipped.Slide the base plates onto the ends of each extrusion. The large hole on the base plates should be on the outside of the machine. Hand-tighten each screw for now. Slight adjustments may be needed later in assembly, so don’t tighten the screws down completely just yet.
To put the rails together use the big bags of rail screws and extrusion nuts (T-nuts). There are a few ways you can do this, but we find this method to go fairly quickly. Start by feeding enough extrusion nuts into the top and bottom slots on the tall face of the extrusion for each hole on the rail (Should be 20 holes on the 1m rails and 30 holes on the 1.5m rails). To be more efficient, do this for both rails on each side at the same time. Now place a rail above/below the extrusion nut slot, and line up the extrusion nuts with the holes on the rail. Position the rails and start threading screws through the holes and into the extrusion nuts. If you only thread the screws lightly you can re-position the rail while moving along to line up any nuts that were a little off. Once the screws are all in place, begin tightening starting from the edge, making sure the keep the rail as square as possible with the extrusion.
Attach all rails to their extrusions this way; the two y-axis rails as well as the much thicker gantry.
If your kit is larger than 1500x1500mm you will have to butt two shorter rails together. For example if you have a 1500x2500mm HD kit the y-axis requires that you butt one 1500mm rail with one 1000mm rail to make the required 2500mm length.
Note: At manufacturing sometimes the black v-rails are 1mm to 2mm longer than they should be, while we try to filter these out some of your rails may be slightly too long to correctly fit within the machine’s frame. These rails are easily trimmed so a quick trip to a wheel grinder or saw will remedy the issue.
Using everything in the “Belt Clips” packet, assemble the belt clips as shown. Three belt clips will have a bracket attached. The clips with a bracket will use the thinner spacers, and those without brackets use the thicker spacers. Note: The belt clips with the L-brackets (a part of the belt tension system) cannot be placed on the same end as the homing sensors, so for example if you want the machine’s 0,0 position to be at the front left, you must place the two y-axis belt clips with the brackets at the rear and the x-axis one at the right end.
Open the bag of belts and roll them out. There will be at least two of the same length, these will be used on the Y-Axis. The third belt by default will run along the X-Axis. Loop the belt through the clips as shown. You may need to adjust belt length later on, so give a decent amount to grab onto after installation. You will also find zip ties in the packet, use them to hold down the ends of the belts onto themselves near the belt clips to avoid any possible belt slippage during operation. We recommend installing these only after the machine has been calibrated.
Using the pack of self-tap screws and accompanying Torx wrench (or standard screws with tap kit), attach a Y-Axis rail to both base plates on a base extrusion. Be careful on first assembly to tap the screws in straight. It is possible for screws to tap in at an angle. Slide the first belt clip onto the outside of the rail. Feed the belt through the Y-Axis assembly (with motor plate on the outside), and align the wheels with the rail to slide the assembly on. Be careful not to twist the belt during this step! Slide on the second belt clip. Do this again on the opposing rail.
Attach the other end of the rails to the opposing base plates.
Carefully lift the gantry and place one end on the inner Y-Axis plate of one side. Gently allow the other side to rest on the rails. Using 2 self-tap screws, lift the gantry and line up the screws with the extrusion holes. Do NOT let go of the gantry until at least one screw is fully in! Keep the gantry held up with one hand, and screw in the top two self-tap screws with your other hand. Four screws will suffice to hold this side of the gantry for the time being. Slide on the first belt clip, and feed the belt through the main assembly. Lift the gantry very carefully, align the wheels on the rails and slide the main assembly onto the X-Axis. Make sure the belt doesn’t twist during this step! The gantry and main assembly are heavy; having something to prop up the gantry while the main assembly is slid on would be very helpful. Now, slide on the second belt clip. Slide the main assembly further down the rail to make lifting the gantry easier. Lift the gantry and slide the opposing Y-Axis Assembly into place. At this point, the gantry might not meet up with the second plate. The gantry should be very close to being flush with the Y-Axis plate. If there is a gap, or if the gantry reaches too far, adjust the position of the Y-Axis with a rubber mallet (or similar) until the gantry meets up well with the plate. Attach the gantry with self-tap screws. Fill the mounting holes with self-tap screws on both sides of the gantry.
Go back to all of the wheels with eccentric nuts now and “point” them toward the rail. This should cause the wheels to engage with the rail. Be cautious not to over-engage the wheels with the rail as this will require much more effort from your motors to move the machine! You will feel a bit of resistance when the wheels engage with the rail. If you can’t easily spin the wheels with your finger, they should be well enough engaged. Once engaged, tighten the wheel into place with the allen key. Engage all of the eccentric wheels on each assembly.
The Spindle Carriage consists of the carriage plate and 6 steel wheels from the Wheel Kit.
Install the 6 steel wheels as shown, and aim the eccentric nuts inward. If you have a Spindle Mount plate like the one shown here, you will need to thread the 4 corner holes with 20mm M6 screws, provided in the Z-Axis hardware packet, prior to installing the carriage.
The Spindle Carriage is attached to the ball nut by way of 4 screws from the Z-Axis hardware packet. Slide the carriage along the rails from the bottom up. Align the carriage with the ball nut and attach using the 4 screws. Once attached, engage the wheels with the rails. To maintain a centered carriage, alternate engaging wheels between rails. Once all wheels are properly engaged, tighten the wheels in place using an allen key. There are access holes in the X-Axis plate to reach the wheels. We recommend that you hold the eccentric nuts in place with a nut wrench and use the allen key to turn the screw and torque it down. Sometimes the use of clamps to hold the z-axis extrusions as closely together as possible makes it easier to align the wheels and have them properly engage. If you do this place the clamp in the middle of the extrusions and make sure they are somewhat loose before clamping down.
If you are installing the 3kw spindle please attach the “X-style” spindle mount plate to the spindle with the provided hardware, and slide the plate onto the carriage screws. Secure the spindle mount plate to the carriage with the provided lock washers and nuts.
If you opted for the 1.5kw spindle than you will have different mounting hardware to the one above. Located in your spindle bag there should be eight 35mm M6 screws, eight spacers, eight lock washers, and eight nuts. Reposition the spindle plate as far down as possible, moving the bottom wheels off of the rail. This will provide best access to the spindle mounting holes. Position the spindle’s mounting holes over their corresponding holes on the spindle plate. There is no right or wrong way to install the screws, you can have them coming from the back of the plate or from the front, whichever is easier for you to install. The spindle should just barely clear the wheel screws, however it is normal if it rests on top of the screws so long as the spindle is still resting on the spacers. See the last two photos on the right for reference.
Motor Installation and Belt Tightening
he Z-Axis motor will be attached using the Z-Axis Motor Mount Plate and the Z-Axis hardware packet. Assemble the plate as shown using the provided hardware. Remove the 4 screws from the top bearing housing as shown, this is where the plate will attach. Attach the coupler to the ball screw and tighten the bottom set screw. Slide the assembled Z-Axis Motor Mount Plate around the coupler and attach with the 4 M4 screws provided.
Install the belt motors by lowering the motor pulley into the belt loop, while making sure that the back pulleys sit around the belt. Using hardware found in the “Motor Plates” packet, mount the motor.
NOTE: SD Model shown in images. Same concept.
Pull the belt clip without the bracket all the way to the base plate and secure it in place. Pull the belt clip with the bracket toward the other end.
Feed the tightening screw threads through the holes on the base plate. The belt should be fairly snug before the clip fully reaches the base plate. If it is not, feed more of the belt through the clip until it can only reach ~0.5 inch from the base plate without added pressure. Make sure the belt properly engages the motor pulley and the belt does not hang off the top or bottom of the back pulleys! Now thread the wing nut onto the screw and tighten the belt. The belt should be tight enough that a gentle tug will not pull it more than an inch from the extrusion. The tightness of the belt is important, as a belt that is too loose may experience skips on the motor pulley during operation while a belt that is too tight may lead to misalignment!
NOTE: (SD Model shown in first gallery)
We will now want to bundle the cables running from the motors, limit switches, and the spindle and feed them through the drag chains. The drag chains are already mounted in the images, yours will not be mounted just yet. It is easier to feed the drag chains prior to mounting. As shown in the image, the main assembly will run the x-axis and z-axis motor cables, the z-axis limit switch cable, and the spindle cable through the x-axis drag chain. Note that the twisted wires labeled “spindle” in the image are replaced with an actual cable in the kit! You may find it easier to feed the cables through the drag chain by taping the ends of the cables together and feeding them all simultaneously. After feeding the x-axis drag chain, continue with the cables into the y-axis drag chain joining the x-axis limit switch cable and the y-axis motor cable. At this point it may become cumbersome to feed the large bundle of cables through the entire length of drag chain. To ease the process, breaking the drag chain into smaller chunks and feeding the cables through those individually is much easier! The drag chain can be broken apart with a bit of force as shown in the image. Reassemble the drag chain after fully feeding the cables through. Lastly, feed the opposing y-axis drag chain with the single motor cable.
(Soon to be replaced with “on top” of gantry method) We will now mount the drag chains. Starting with the x-axis, remove the screws on both ends of the bottom rail on the back of the x-axis. Thread the long full-thread screws, found in the “Drag Chains” packet, through the holes on the drag chain channel, securing them loosely in place with the supplied nuts. As shown in the image, feed the screw through the holes at the end of the drag chain. Attach the drag chain channel to the x-axis using the open screw holes at both ends of the rail. Attach the top of the drag chain to the x-axis using hardware supplied in the “Drag Chains” packet. NOTE: If you find that the x-axis drag chain slides around too much for your liking, some double-sided tape can be applied near the center to keep the drag chain in alignment.
Attach the y-axis drag chains to the y-axis plates using the hardware supplied in the “Drag Chains” packet. Join the ends of the y-axis drag chains to the back base plates using the angle bracket hardware as shown.
For connection information regarding your electronics control box please refer to the image below. If you did not opt for the plug and play VFD enclosure not all connections will be used. For more information about the unit itself please refer to this online PDF.
visit Warp9 Tech Design.
Below are the settings to properly program your VFD with images to properly wire it. Please take note of the voltage your spindle is designed to operate at. Failure to properly program the VFD can damage the spindle!
PD001 – 0
PD002 – 0
PD003 – 400 (Default frequency, can be set to 200 or 300)
PD004 – 400 (Rated frequency)
PD005 – 400 (High End frequency)
PD008 – 220 (High End voltage) *Set to 110 if have you the 110v version
PD009 – 14 (Mid End voltage)
PD010 – 7 (Low End voltage)
PD011 – 200 (Minimum allowed frequency)
PD014 – 10 (Acceleration time)
PD015 – 10 (deceleration time)
PD070 – 0 (Speed control input)
PD072 – 400 (High End frequency)
PD141 – 220 (Rated spindle voltage) *Set to 110 if have you the 110v version
PD142 – 7 (Rated spindle Amperage) *Set to 8 if you have the 110v version
PD143 – 2 (Number of poles)
PD144 – 3000 (RPM of spindle when running at 50hz, 400hz is the maximum so
3000 x 8 = 24,000 which is the max RPM of the spindle).
3.0kw Spindle VFD Settings:
PD001 – 0
PD002 – 0
PD003 – 300 (Default frequency)
PD004 – 300 (Rated frequency)
PD005 – 300 (High End frequency)
PD008 – 220 (High End voltage)
PD009 – 15 (Mid End voltage)
PD010 – 8 (Low End voltage)
PD011 – 200 (Minimum allowed frequency)
PD014 – 12 (Acceleration time)
PD015 – 12 (deceleration time)
PD070 – 0 (Speed control input)
PD072 – 300 (High End frequency)
PD141 – 220 (Rated spindle voltage)
PD142 – 8.6 (Rated spindle Amperage) * Tested at 10 and 11 for more torque, however do so at your own risk
PD143 – 2 (Number of poles)
PD144 – 3000 (RPM of spindle when running at 50hz, 300hz is the maximum so 3000 x 6 = 18,000 which is the max RPM of the spindle).
NOTE: If you selected the 2700mm HD your gantry (x-axis) will be slightly longer, please use the included “L” bracket to mount the sensor onto the extrusion t-slot, do not mount directly to the plate as the sensor will not be able to detect the plate from that distance.
Mach HD Safe/Test Setting Profiles
The HD Safe/Test Settings will get your machine up and running but it will require some changes on your end to best suit your needs such as acceleration, rapids. slow zones, axis travel length, spindle settings, etc. These settings are conservative for the purposes of allowing you test various aspects of the machine without fear of damaging it.
If the controller is not responding please make sure the e-stop button is not pressed in. If it’s not pressed in try flipping the “charge pump” switch on the back of the Gecko controller, Mach 3 and Mach 4 require the switch to be in different positions to work properly.
Your Routakit HD is now fully assembled and functional! You’re ready to start cutting, milling, engraving, etc! With that said when operating your Routakit please take the necessary safety precautions.